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How to achieve the desired color of the toy?
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How to achieve the desired color of the toy?
Posted by Marta on October 21, 2022 at 19:11Hello! How to achieve the desired color of the toy?
Please help with advice. I want to dump the wild cat, and I can’t figure out how to achieve the desired color for the toy. The cat will be fluffy (I will fluff with a reverse needle №40). My head is all messed up. Maybe some of you have this experience?
Marta replied 1 year, 1 month ago 9 Members · 26 Replies- 26 Replies
In my opinion, you should use melange rather than monochrome wool…
Thank you for responding: What kind of mélange do you think I should use carded wool? The brown somehow gives off a red feel, and there doesn’t seem to be any more mélange in carded wool (of the correct color). Maybe I’m wrong…
Mix the two colors using the brushes
You mean try to mix ginger and black?
I would do this: white or light beige on the inside of the cat. I would put a dark beige one on top of the white one. And in the places where black peeks through, I would put some black under the beige.
When you work with a reverse needle, white and black will appear, and they will show up – that’s how you get your melange.
Thanks for the advice. I’ll try it and report back later.
If you put another color of wool on top of a layer of one color, the wool of the bottom layer will be mixed with the top layer when processed with the reverse needle.
Thank you, I will definitely try it.
I agree with Tina. Try rolling a small ball and jiggling the needle back….. You have to experiment with colors.
Hi. I also wanted to say that the wool on the inside will come out in less quantity than the wool on top…
Exactly right! That’s why black should be present (where necessary) as a thin layer. And inside – a lot of white, outside – a lot of beige.
But it’s better not to take black. Dark brown is better.
In the photo is not particularly visible, of course, but it seems closer to brown (black will probably give the dirt) and probably needs a very thin layer so that it does not cover the primary color. But still need to experiment before you go straight to work.
Thank you, the information is very valuable. I’ll give it a try and see what happens. I never thought that solid coloring would be so difficult for me to do.
You were right about the layers. And yes, black with ochre will give you dirt. Gray or taupe is better. And, of course, it’s better to try it on a ball.
I would suggest just tinting with dry pastel.
I want to ask, what exactly do you want to tint? The base before you fluff it, or directly on the wool that is already fluffed?
Pick up the primary color of the color-mixing several tones of wool – this is all correct and the dark areas – to color pastels. Tinting is done after fluffing and shearing.
But, in this case, the effect will be short-lived.
No, the pastel is not short-term. On the contrary, you must apply it very carefully because you can not remove anything.
In the recesses, yes, I agree. The main thing is not to overdo it but to tint over the fluffed wool. My experience, unfortunately, says otherwise. Can you imagine if the toy owner wants to vacuum, comb it with a brush, or just a dry rag to wipe off the dust? All this pastel will fly off. It’s just a powder. It does not penetrate the structure of the wool but only lies on the surface.
I know very well what will happen. Nothing. Everything will stay in place. If properly applied, the pastel penetrates into the wool structure. After toning, I soak the toy in salvitose and brush again – all the colors stay in place, nothing is smeared and especially not fly off.
I see. Why salvitose?
Is it okay that the surface area is large? It’s not the muzzle lightly, but practically the whole body and around the front paws and neck…
Looking at the photo – I would do so. If the area is large, it makes sense to tint with wool – as written above.
I agree with Maria. The pastel is absorbed into the wool forever. But I would apply it before fluffing, and then it looks more natural, and you certainly can’t knock it out.
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