Felting needles. An ultimate and helpful guide (2023)
What is a felting needles?
The felting needles is the primary tool in dry felting. It is also called a felt needles. The needles are made of hardened steel and have a unique shape and size, with barbs on the working area. With the help of barbs, the needle pushes the wool fibers into the wool bundle, resulting in the yarn being felted and the product taking on a specific shape.
The video below shows how a felting needle works
What are the main parts of a felting needle?
– Main parts of a felting needles
- The Crank is the L-shaped 90-degree hook at the top of the needle. This is the portion that fits into a needle loom and helps hold the needle in place. It seats it on the bed/board of the machine. It’s used in some holders to keep the needle.
- The Shank, the tapers (either one or two), and sometimes an intermediate section are all parts that are important to the various machines that the needles are designed to fit in. We hold on to this part of the needle with our hand or insert it into the holder.
- Taper
- The intermediate section is usually smooth and thus causes no feeling action. Sometimes this part is entirely missing (in single reduction modification).
- Taper
- The working part of the needle is also called a blade and has a different shape.
- Barbs. A felting needle has tiny barbs on the blade. When it is stabbed through wool, it catches on the fiber’s scales and pushes them together.
- Point. The point also has different shapes.
Felting needles are made to fit in large industrial machines and are not explicitly used in hand. The crank and shank of the needle are made to fit into slots in a large needle loom. But we, like all art lovers, will not pay attention to this and will use them as we want!
What are the types and shapes of felting needles?
There are a few main needle shapes: triangular, star, conical, teardrop, twisted, crown and forked.
Triangular felting needles
– Triangular felting needles shape
Features:
- The working part cross-section is an equilateral triangle
- Working part parallel from the point to the tapered transition
- Between 1 and 3 barbs along each edge as standard
- Barb dimensions are identical across all edges
Benefits:
- Suitable for all applications
- Uniform deflection in every direction of load
- Improved surface of the finished product
Triangular felting needles with different barbs
– Triangular felting needles with different barbs
Features:
- The working part cross-section is an equilateral triangle
- Working part parallel from the point to the tapered transition
- Between 1 and 3 barbs along each edge as standard
- Graduated barb size per edge: The closer to the point, the smaller the barb
Benefits:
- Uniform deflection in every direction of load
- Improvement of the surface aspect (smaller funnel-shaped recesses in the end product) compared to conical felting needles
- Less soiling during fiber needling compared to conical needles
- Reduced penetration force at the start, resulting in improved needle guidance, lower deflection and less needle breakage
Conical felting needles
– Conical felting needles shape
Features:
- The working part cross-section is an equilateral triangle
- Markedly rising taper angle from the point to the end of the working part
- Reduced number of barbs (smaller than 9 barbs)
- Graduated barb size per edge: The closer to the point, the smaller the barb
Benefits:
- Uniform bending strength coupled with maximum stability in all directions of load
- Generally lower needle breakage
- Reduced penetration force at the start due to down-ward graduation of barb size towards the point
Cross star felting needles
– Cross star felting needles shape
Features:
- Working part similar to an equilateral four-edged star
- Working part parallel from the point to the tapered transition
- Barb dimensions are identical across all edges
- Most common number of barbs: Either 1 or 2 barb’s per edge
Benefits:
- Greater needling efficiency due to distribution of the barbs over 4 edges
- Generally lower needle breakage
TriStar felting needles
– TriStar felting needles shape
Features:
- Equilateral triangular working part
- Working part parallel from the point to the tapered transition
- Barb dimensions are identical across all edges
- Most common number of barbs: 2 barbs per edge
- Working part side concave in shape, creating more acutely angled edges
- 8 % lower working part cross-section compared to the standard needle
Benefits:
- Higher needling efficiency due to improved fiber entanglement in the barb area
- Suitable productivity increase
Teardrop felting needles
– Teardrop felting needles shape
Features:
- Teardrop shaped working part cross section
- Working part parallel from the point to the tapered transition
- Barb dimensions are identical across all edges
- Most common number of barbs: 4, 6 or 8 barbs
Benefits:
- Higher needling efficiency due to improved fiber entanglement in the barb area
- Extremely gentle effect on the warp and weft thread networks of the base material
EcoStar felting needles
– EcoStar felting needles shape
Features:
- Equilateral triangular working part
- Working part parallel from the point to the tapered transition
- Barb dimensions are identical across all edges
- Rectangular shaped edge surfaces
- 13 % lower working part cross-section compared to the standard needle
Benefits:
- Improved surface of the finished product
- Lower penetration force without compromising efficiency
- Reduced need for effort
Twisted felting needles
– Twisted felting needles shape
Features:
- Equilaterally formed triangular working part with a defined twist
- Barb dimensions are identical across all edges
- Most common number of barbs: 2 barbs per edge
- Modifies barb arrangement on the working part compared to the standard felting needle
Benefits:
- More efficient needling due to higher fiber transportation
- Optimized surface quality of the end product
- Higher production speeds possible due to reduced penetration density
- Compared to standard felting needles, the twisted working part does not cause any detrimental bending strength properties
Fork felting needles
– Fork felting needles shape
Features:
- Shank with single or multiple reduction and cylindrical working part
- Three-dimensionally rounded fork geometry
- Fork setting V or D
Benefits:
- Gentle fiber take-up – coupled with long service life of the needle
- No needle breakage or bending due to optimum needle straightness
- Fabric appearance is influenced by the fork setting V and D
Crown felting needles
– Crown felting needles shape
Features:
- High dimensional accuracy of barbs
- Minimal, precisely maintained barb spacing
- Structure similar to felting needles, only difference lies in barb arrangement: Precisely one barb on each edge of the working part
- Short distance from the point to the barbs
Benefits:
- Particularly uniform, velvety surface structure
- Simultaneous fiber pick-up during structuring due to high dimensional stability of barbs and very low, precisely maintained barb spacing
Reverse felting needles
– Reverse felting needles shape
Features:
- The working part cross-section is an equilateral triangle
- Working part parallel from the point to the tapered transition
- Between 1 and 3 barbs along each edge as standard
- Barb dimensions are identical across all edges
Benefits:
- Suitable for all applications
- Uniform deflection in every direction of load
- Improved surface of the finished product
Why do felting needles have numbers, and which size should I use?
The numbers used to describe felting needles refer to their gauge: the higher the number, the thinner the needle is. The lower the number, the heavier the gauge of the needle, and the thicker it is.
The thicker ones work better for coarse wool, while the thinner ones work better for fine wool.
Why do they work this way? Because coarse wool is microscopically thicker than fine wool, a thicker gauge needle would allow for a deeper notch to catch the fiber.
That’s not to say that a thick gauge would not work on fine wool, but because it’s thick, the holes from poking it in are far more visible. A finer gauge will not work well on coarse wool because the notches aren’t deep enough to grab it. You can still get the job done, but it’ll take much more poking to get there.
You can find felting needles in the following gauges: 32, 36, 38, 40 and 42. 32 and 42 needles being the least common. As the number gets higher, the needle is thinner.
How to read felting needles gauges/numbers?
– Felting needles gauges/numbers
32 gauge would be used for coarse wool or quickly moving a large amount of fiber. It is suitable for attaching a limb to the body but will leave a more noticeable surface dent than a finer needle.
36 gauge is also suitable for quickly moving fiber and leaves less dent than a 32. You may use a 36 frequently in the under layers for sculptures and lay in more extensive base layers of color.
38 gauge is a little less aggressive and has less distortion of the surface. These are good for working on more detailed sections and laying in layers of color. When rooting, this needle will give a delicate covering of hair, and when felting will smooth surfaces fast and firm. Probably you will use this gauge most of the time.
40 gauge is finer still and moves less fiber than the larger needles. These are good for fine details. Rooting this needle will give a fine/thin head of hair; when felting, stray hairs neaten the surface without creating a dent underneath. They are not as fast as working with the larger gauges.
42 gauges are now getting quite common. It is more delicate than the 40 and has even less surface distortion. It will take longer to move fiber than the larger needles. It is used for soft and gentle work. Rooting this will give sparse coverage, which is useful for eyelashes when felting creates a smooth surface.
Some felting supply companies provide them color-coded, or you can easily do this using different color nail polish as soon as you open the package before they get mixed in.
Don’t forget to write down which color is what!
– Felting needles different gauges marked with colors
What are barbs, and what are their types?
A felting needle has tiny bars on the blade. When it is stabbed through wool, it catches on the fiber’s scales and pushes them together. The more you penetrate, the more fibers matt together, slowly turning the yarn into solid felt.
Barbs can be placed in different positions on the blade and come in different shapes and sizes. The blades can have a different number of barbs. The more barbs, the quicker the felting action. The closer the notches are to the tip of the needle, the smaller the amplitude of hand movement is required when felting.
Some barb shapes are more aggressive. Some are designed for the longer work term. Some barb shapes are designed to be gentle.
Barb measurements in felting needles
– Felting needles barb measurements
Barb Angle
The barb angle is the number of degrees the engaging fiber surface is displaced from a vertical position. The barb is usually made with a 20-degree barb angle. It is essential that the barb angle is precise and does not shift below specification. If the barb angle declines below 10–15 degrees, the fibers will slip off the barb face during penetration through the fiber web, thus affecting key physical properties.
Total Barb Depth
The total barb depth of the needle is measured from the top of the barb to the very bottom. If there is a kickup on the barb, it too is included in this measurement.
The total barb depth will determine how many fibers will fit into the barb. Choosing the proper total barb depth for a particular application is critical.
Throat Angle
The throat angle is opposite the barb’s face. It affects the amount and the speed at which fibers fill the barbs.
Throat Length
The throat length is simply the length of the barb. Larger barbs tend to have longer throat lengths, and smaller barbs tend to have shorter throat lengths.
Throat Depth
The throat depth of the needle is the amount of barb below the triangle’s apex.
Popular types of barbs
Here are a few types of barbs. Of course, there are many others.
KV barb
The traditionally cut barb with its pronounced edges remains widely used in various application fields. This can also represent an economical alternative to other barb styles.
HL barb
The HL barb stands for maximum care of the fibers. The three-dimensionally rounded shape is achieved using precision tools. The fibers adhere to the round barb area and are therefore gently needled.
RF barb
The accentuated base of the barb and the rounded edges in the undercut area positively impact the wear characteristics and guarantee a long service life of the needle.
FB barb
The FB barb also has a three-dimensional shaped contour. The efficient transport of fibers occurs over the defined surfaces in the undercut area. These characteristics result in a uniform needling effect and a long needle service life.
Each side of the needle may have one or up to three barbs. Sometimes in the package, you may see the codes 111, 222, or 333. It shows how many barbs are on each blade side of the needle. Three barbs per side will move more fiber than two or one per side. Having more sides will also increase the fiber the needle engages with.
You need to use 333 if you want to move fiber fast. If you’re going to isolate just a few yarns and get them to sit exactly where you want, you need to use 222 or a crown 111.
The needles from different sellers, in the same shape and gauge, can still vary in aggression. Which suggests the needles have a different barb on them.
Barbs spacing
– Felting needles barb spacing
The last barb consideration is their spacing on the working part. Look at your needle and recognize that you are moving fiber only where the barbs are. So barbs close to the point do not have to be plunged deep within the piece to work. You only have to go in a bit to entangle the fibers.
This is often helpful for people with muscle strain from over-enthusiastic stabbing.
Felting needles point
Depending on the base material’s structure and gauge, needle points are used with differently pronounced radii.
– Felting needles points
The needle’s point is very sharp, so it can easily penetrate wool or other fibers. Unfortunately, it’s pretty easy to stab yourself with a felting needle, and you always have to be careful not to get the point in your hands.
Felting needles are pretty delicate and can break easily if misused. Make sure you are stabbing in and out at the same angle, not twisting or bending the needle. If the needle doesn’t go into the wool easily, don’t force it! Either change to a finer needle or if the piece is very hard, you probably want to stop it to avoid over-felting.
Felting Needles go blunt over time, much quicker if you’re working on wire or pipe cleaners. If pieces take longer to feel, you probably need to change your needle.
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